Saturday, 30 July 2011

Day 113 Windjana Gorge – Tunnel Creek - Bells Gorge 22nd July - 23rd July


After much research the night before, we had high hopes that we would be able to cover three gorges today before we camped. It turned out that distances were a little more than expected and we ended up making it only to the first one! So much for planning!

Our first stop on the road was Tunnel Creek to travel through dark tunnel in, at times, waist high waters. With a bit of trepidation, we ventured into the waters looking out for freshies, known to inhabit the waters. This was definitely one of the highlights of the Kimberley's.













We travelled further up the corrugated Leopold Downs Rd and finally reached the Gibb River Rd, one of the most iconic 4WD roads in Australia. The road turned out to be in much better shape than we expected and a far better road than the Fairfield Rd – it even had tarmac in places! The drive eastwards through the King Leopold Ranges was beautiful, with rock outcrops and boab trees punctuating the landscape. 
 

We camped at the Silent Grove Campground in the King Leopold Ranges NP. Its a well equipped and shady campsite with flushing toilets and solar powered showers. The next day we would tackle Bells Gorge.

Day 112 RAAF Boab Quarry– Tunnel Creek - Windjana Gorge 21st July - 22nd July

We packed up early and headed out from this pretty, camping spot to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge. The Leopold Downs Rd continued to be highly corrugated so we travelled at at low speed and with plenty of shaking we slowly made our way northwards towards Tunnel Creek. Robyn did the majority of the drive and got a little annoyed with my back seat driving :)


With the increasing number of creek crossings, we were determined to follow Vic's advice and inspect the crossings before attempting them. So we got the long shovel out and waded out, feeling our way slowly across the four creek crossings for the day. After some debate on the right gears to be in, we engaged diff-lock and low range and made our way across. In one of the crossings I was too clever for my own good, playing around with the gears and almost getting stuck in what must be one of the smallest creek crossings possible! Lucky we sorted it out before anybody else came through. We saw lots of cars not performing any inspections and doing the crossings at speed – something we weren't willing to risk.

We got to Tunnel Creek National Park in one piece and parked on the road amongst a large number of 4WD's. With reef shoes on, clothed only in our swimming costumes we made our way through the dark cave system with only the light of our torches illuminating the way. We waded through at times waist deep water through the caves which ended 700 metres at a scenic view at the other end.




Windjana NP



Kimberley Bauhinia



Windjana NP campground
Bower Bird adorning its nest with white gravel

We had been a little worried at the start about seeing freshies on the way, but with so many noisy tourists, they seem to keep their distance away from the tunnel. Our confidence had grown by the time we got through one end and the way back was easy – how quickly we had become experts! The boys and Jasmine thought that Tunnel Creek was awesome and certainly the experience was a highlight for all our family.
Yikes!

Here freshie, freshie!

We continued our drive further north up Leopold Downs Rd to Windjana Gorge. We camped at this large well laid out camp area. There was a short walk along the gorge, entering it through a small gap in the rocks leading to spectacular views of the creek running past deeply cut cliff walls. The sandy walk led us past many freshies laying motionless in the water.

We also were also very lucky to see that the dress rehearsal was on for a play at the gorge – Jandamarra was on that evening. We were able to see this famous aboriginal play for a small donation. The camp ground and play were completely booked out for the rest of the week – so this was indeed very fortuitous. So we brought down our chairs in the evening, and with Windjana Gorge for a backdrop, we watched the story of how an aboriginal man from the Bunaba people led a resistance against white pastoralists for three years, ending with his death at Tunnel Creek. We were treated with a great cultural experience, and left understanding a little better the indigenous people's link with the land, their stories and their tragic history.


The set for Jandamurra











 

Day 111 Fitzroy Crossing – RAAF Boab Quary 20th July - 21st July

We packed up early in the morning and Dave came over to try to help us fix the wheel cap. We took off the camper-trailer wheel and he inspected the bearings. He declared that they were fine, dirt and grit hadn't got in so he re-greased them. Putting our spare cap on was more elusive and after much banging, pushing, heaving and sweating we stopped, defeated. After thanking him profusely for his efforts, I put on my bush repair cap and we headed into town to find a cap that would fit over the hub. We were in luck and found a mechanic who would help us, but we would have to wait half the day. He cut grooves into our cap, and using a press, banged the cap in. Not being sure it would stay in, it was time to get the gaffa tape again to secure the area! He was kind enough not to even charge us! The kindness of strangers continues to teach us lessons.

Where's the wheel!

Thanks Dave & Gayle

While waiting for the repair, we took the opportunity to see a little more of Fitzroy Crossing. We ended up visiting the local Crossing Inn for lunch, which was filling up fast because it was payday for the aborigines. We visited the Mankaja art centre in town, a locally owned centre which displays art work from the indigenous peoples of the areas surrounding Fitzroy Crossing. They have written up the history of some of the elder artists which makes an interesting read. 


Lunch at Crossing Inn
After the repair, it was off again to Leoplod Downs Rd to try out its corrugations at get to our camping spot – the strangely named RAAF Boab Quarry. This bizarre name is due to the fact that this site was once a quarry used for mining stone used by a RAAF base. The hole has been filled by freshwater and its left a fantastic clear lake. We set up camp, went for a swim, lit a fire and caught up with people we had met in Broome at this wonderful site. It was a relaxing end to a challenging day. 

Boab Tree

RAAF Boab Quarry




Jasmine helping put the camper trailer down

Inspecting creek crossing